Judge Not The Jalebi

GOI directive on desi deep fried snacks misses the point: aam aadmi needs affordable, healthy options

Russians visiting GOI’s nine-day Bharat Utsav festivities in Moscow that concluded Sunday were raving about an Indian duo at the stalls – samosa and masala chai. Union health ministry back home may want central govt offices to put up ‘oil and sugar boards’ as a reminder of samosa’s – and jalebi’s – adverse impact on health, but the irony is, samosa/jalebi is part of what’s often quasi-officially celebrated as India’s contribution to global list of munchies.

Two points. First, undoubtedly, pakodas, vada pav, laddoos, samosas, jalebis and their ilk are unhealthy foods. But they’re free of preservatives and mostly cooked at point of sale. There’s exhaustive evidence that consuming ultra-processed, packaged fried snacks high in fat and sugar is driving India’s obesity problem. Yet, we still do not have front-of-pack-label regulations for packaged foods. Second, availability and affordability. Per ministry directive, these boards/ posters/cautionary signs will be put up in all canteens or stalls on the premises of central govt institutions. To alter people’s consumption of transfat-rich foods, to change people’s snacking behaviours, health ministry also needs to provide alternatives in these very places. The onus of eating healthy is not on people alone – what options, healthy and affordable, is the govt canteen serving?

Take for instance, the 57 items Western Central Railway lists as available at its stalls. Snacks range from idli-vada-dosa to pakodas (bread/onion/paneer), samosa, cutlets and, of course, aloo bonda. Prices start at Rs 10 (kachori), upto Rs 25 (veg cutlet). The cheapest – and only healthy – snack is a boiled egg, Rs 9. Jalebi is cheaper: Rs 6. For people on the go, grabbing a vada pav is commute culture. Without providing options, cautionary signs may simply push consumers to packaged foods – that can only worsen the obesity health crisis.

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